The canoeist waited several hours. When the tide has almost reached its peak, the time has come: bright turquoise, like snow in a crevice, Skukumchuk rises from the bubbling water. Skookumchuck, or Skook for short, is one of the largest saltwater rapids in the world. Here, at a narrow point between two inlets on Canada’s west coast, the changing tide raises steep waves that are great for surfing – with kayaks as well as surfboards. Translated into German, Skookumchuck means “wild water”. What a silence! 750 million cubic meters is pressed through the constriction twice a day. The stream reaches speeds of up to 32 kilometers per hour and attracts adrenaline junkies from all over the world. “But only the best can ride the schook,” says Dwayne Henderson. The bearded Canadian runs a campground with his fellow Cheyenne in Egmont, the only settlement near the rapids.
The school is about an hour’s walk from here. But the hike is worthwhile not only because of the natural spectacle. Low tide reveals countless tide pools along the shore, filled with lilac and orange starfish, crabs, and beautiful sea anemones. And with a little luck, you can spot sea lions and otters hunting. Visiting Skook is the first attraction of the round-trip highlight of the motorhome rental tour that heads north from Vancouver to the Sunshine Coast. Stretching from Langdale to Lund, this idyllic piece of Canada, although part of mainland British Columbia, gives visitors the feeling of being on an island. Rugged mountains and wide fjords sometimes impede road connectivity.
The two ferry crossings between Vancouver and the Powell River are unavoidable, so travelers are forced to quickly go into vacation mode. “Slow down, clocks tick differently on the coast,” says Field. The Sunshine Coast has 180 kilometers of coastline and, in fact, the sun shines more often here than in other parts of western Canada. The reason for this is a mountain range higher than 2000 meters on the offshore island of Vancouver Island. It blocks the rain clouds that flow from the Pacific and gives the coast its similar climate. In the summer, water sports enthusiasts get their money’s worth: windsurfing, sailing, kayaking, fishing – instruction and equipment are offered in every village. In spring and autumn, hikers and mountain bikers will find peace and solitude on the countless paths that meander through pristine forests to landscapes dotted with fjords and pristine lakes.
Anyone who enjoys the beautiful and sunny side of Canada’s west coast should now know the rough and wild side. Otherwise the picture is not complete. You can take the ferry to Vancouver Island in the Powell River. Highway 4 takes you round-trip to the next attraction: the town of Tofino, which houses 2,000 spirits on the west coast of the island. Pacific waves roll steadily over the miles of sandy beaches of the Esovista Peninsula, at the northern tip of which lies Tofino. “In winter, the waves are often as high as a house,” says Jackie Holiday, who grew up here.
20 years ago, surfer hotspot Tofino was still a real insider tip. Today, nearly every tourist on Vancouver Island makes a detour. “Tofino has just about everything a vacationer would love – great sandy beaches, waves for surfing, enchanted rainforest and lots of wildlife,” said the 39-year-old, who works as a captain for an excursion company. excites. Is set up for an active vacation: taking pictures of whales, watching bears, learning to ride the waves – no problem for cash!
But you can also enjoy Tofino if you don’t want to spend any money and spend all day “sanding” on velvety soft beaches – collecting flotsam, for example. Jackie calls it “beachcombing”. But hiking through the evergreen rainforest, where the trunks of ancient towering trees soar into the sky like the pillars of a cathedral, is also magical. Some are 60 meters or more high and have a circumference of up to 7 meters. The branches are covered with lichens. Many of the trees look like the giant trees of Middle-earth (“The Lord of the Rings”). After so much nature, the final stop of the tour is the perfect complement to the already experienced: Victoria at the southern tip of the island exudes cosmopolitan flair and throws on your hiking boots and outdoor gear and goes shopping is fun. A decent way to eat. Originally a settlement of fur trappers, Victoria became the capital of the Crown Colony of British Columbia in 1868. The early years were turbulent. First came the prospectors, then the woodcutter. A building boom began that died down after a gold rush, but left a charming Victorian-style town dotted with manicured parks. The historic town center on the natural harbor is still Victoria’s main attraction.
However, if you crave endless expanses of ocean and wilderness: as in many places, there are also whale watching offers. If you haven’t seen a whale on your trip yet, you can try your luck again here. TOI Toi Toi!
The research was supported by Destination British Columbia.
